The generation that came of age in the 1970s loves to revisit its memories of that time. And because the youths of those days have become the heavy-hitting customers of today, many things that were popular then are experiencing a rebirth. The success of the new muscle cars and the return of the Lava Lamp are proof.
In the 1970s, watches — like men's ties — were large and colorful. Experimentation with shapes and dimensions was the norm, and we see this trend emerging again today. It's no wonder that we're seeing models from the "Me Decade" reissued in a more or less revised form.

As different as our two test watches appear at the outset, they do have a common origin that begins in 1969. That's when the first automatic chronograph movement, called Caliber 11, was introduced, launching a new age. The ebauche manufacturer Buren Watch supplied an automatic movement with a microrotor for which Dubois Depraz provided a chronograph module. Two watch companies, Breitling and Heuer (predecessor of TAG Heuer), provided financing and aided in developing the technology. It was fitting that these firms were the main beneficiaries of Caliber. 11. The first watches with this movement — the predecessors of our test watches - appeared that same year.
Like other watches with this automatic chronograph movement, they were easy to spot: their crowns were on the left side of their cases, opposite the pushers. Operability won out over nostalgia in the new versions: both have their crowns in their traditional positions on the right side.
IN OTHER FACETS of their outward appearance, however, both brands' watches remained true to their predecessors.
TAG Heuer retained its rectangular contours with gently curved flanks. At first glance the Breitling's case appears to be an oval, but it is actually an octagon. Even the sizes of these two watches correspond almost exactly to the original versions that were introduced 39 years ago. This is particularly surprising for
Breitling, since even by today's standards the diameter of 49 millimeters is enormous, exceeding the earlier model by only one millimeter (assuming the Chrono-Matic Ref. 1806 was used as its base model).
SPECS -
BREITLING CHRONO-MATIC 49Manufacturer: Breitling AG, Schlachthausstr. 2, CH-2540 Grenchen, Switzerland
Reference number: A14360
Functions: Hour, minute, small seconds, date; chronograph with 60-seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour counters, slide-rule bezel, hack mechanism, date corrector
Movement: Breitling 14, derived from the ETA 2892 with a chronograph module from Dubois Depraz, automatic; 28,800 vph; 40 jewels; Glucydur balance; Inca-bloc shock absorption; eccentric fine regulation; power reserve of 42 hours; diameter = 28 mm; COSC certification
Case: Stainless steel, double nonreflective curved sapphire crystal, fully threaded caseback, water-resistant to 3 ATM
Strap and clasp: Rubber strap, stainless-steel folding clasp with quick adjustment
Rate results: Deviation in seconds per day
(without/with chronograph switched on
Dial up +2 +1
Dial down 0 +1
Crown up +1 +1
Crown down +3 +2
Crown left -1 -2
Crown right +3 +4
Greatest rate deviation: 4 6
Average deviation: +1.3 +1.2
Average amplitude:
Horizontal positions 307° 308°
Vertical positions 286° 283°
Dimensions: Diameter= 49 mm, height= 13.5 mm, weight = 168 g
Variations: With woven steel bracelet ($6,860), in rose gold (500 pieces, $20,775)
Price: $6,570
From this direct predecessor, the Chrono-Matic 49 tested here distinguishes itself in particular with its size (reflected in the name of the model), the repositioned crown on the right side, and a price that is almost $2,700 higher than the TAG watch. The new version also has a 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and a rubber-coated bezel. The bezel on the 1969 watch was also black, though then it was blackened steel. At that time, Breitling introduced the model as a modern interpretation of the famous Navitimer pilot's watch, and like this watch it had a slide rule that was not directly moved by the bezel but by a gear within the case. This feature has the advantage of better handling and a more secure way to seal the case. The dial design was updated without affecting the harmony presented in the original.
TAG Heuer also retained much of the 1969 Monaco. The case shape and size correspond to the original, as does the blue dial design with its two square sub-dials. Even the hands are the same. Some of the "mod" elements were eliminated, such as the horizontal hour markers that were placed outside the minute track, and red highlights were used more sparingly this time in order to present a more updated design, but there is no doubt about the watch's DNA.

TAG Heuer also offers a more conservative version with a black dial and black subdials.
Like all models of that era from Heuer, the name Monaco was taken from a famous auto race, the Grand Prix at Monaco. The watch's most famous appearance was in the 1971 film Le Mans, in which actor Steve McQueen wore it in his role as a driver for the Porsche 917 Gulf Team. The Swiss racecar driver Jo Siffert, who led the team in real life, also wore the Monaco. And like the Breitling, the Monaco contained an exciting new movement that, for the first time, united a practical self-winding mechanism with a chronograph and had an avant-garde design that distinguished it from every other watch on the market. Many of these features are still apparent, though more so in the more exotic Monaco than in the Chrono-Matic, whose look is really rather modern.
SPECS -
TAG HEUER MONACO CHRONOGRAPHManufacturer: TAG Heuer SA, Rue L.J.-Chevrolet 6a, CH-2300 La Chauxde-Fonds, Switzerland
Reference number: CW2113
Functions: Hour, minute, small seconds, date; chronograph with 60-second and 30-minute counters, hack mechanism, quick date set
Movement: Calibre 17, derived from the ETA 2894, automatic, 28,800 vph, 37 jewels, nickel balance, Incabloc shock absorption, eccentric fine regulation; power reserve of 42 hours; diameter = 28 mm-, height = 6.1 mm
Case: Stainless steel, acrylic crystal; caseback with four screws, water-resistant to 3 ATM
Strap and clasp: Crocodile strap with stainless-steel folding clasp
Rate results:
Deviation in seconds per day (without/with chronograph switched on)
Dial up +5 +4
Dial down +5 +7
Crown up 0 +1
Crown down +6 +5
Crown left +2 +2
Crown right 0 0
Greatest rate deviation: 6 7
Average deviation: +3 +3.2
Average amplitude:
Horizontal positions 318° 318°
Vertical positions 291° 294°
Dimensions: 38.5 mm x 37.5 mm, height = 12.7 mm, weight = 104 g
Variations: With steel bracelet
Price: $3,900
BOTH WATCHES present top-of-the-line finishes on their cases. Breitling's efforts include the rotating slide rule and rubberized bezel. Surfaces are carefully polished, the caseback is engraved and both sides of the sapphire crystal are nonreflective. The oversized crystal makes the Breitling appear even larger. The Monaco's curved crystal is made of acrylic, as before, which means it's quite susceptible to scratching — but a sapphire crystal would have been an extremely expensive addition. TAG Heuer must secure the caseback with screws due to the shape of
the case, but the seal would have been tighter if more than four screws had been used. Breitling uses a structurally superior screwed case-back, but specifies the same water-resistance as TAG Heuer (3 ATM), so neither is suitable for swimming.
The Breitling rubber strap mounted on the test watch also deserves comment. It is an attractive
counterpart to the rubber bezel and the retro look of the watch. No wonder, since the "Ocean Racer" strap comes from the re-edition of another historic Breitling watch, the Superocean Heritage. The best feature of the strap is the excellently finished folding clasp. It's a well-rounded piece of work and allows the strap to be extended up to eight millimeters. It can be opened with the two push-buttons, is not overly thick and is comfortable to wear. Overall, the wearing comfort is exceptionally good for such a large watch.
The TAG Heuer is also comfortable to wear, though the folding clasp can pinch some wrists. The length of the strap can be adjusted to fit even the slimmest wrist. The blue crocodile strap and the clasp are nicely finished. Like the clasp on the Breitling watch, the TAG Heuer clasp is opened by using two push-buttons on the side.
The crown and pushers on both watches are easy to operate, though the function of the start-stop pusher on the Chrono-Matic is smoother than the Monaco. Thanks to a hack mechanism and date corrector, the time and date can be set quickly and accurately. Both work well enough that you won't have to use the fluted crowns very often.
OUR TESTS ON the timing machine measured a low average rate gain in the Chrono-Matic of only 1.3 seconds per day with the chronograph function off, and 1.2 seconds per day with the chronograph function on. The greatest rate deviation between the various positions remained happily quite low: at four seconds per day and six seconds per day with an engaged chronograph, just as you would expect of a certified chronometer. Though the Monaco also runs with a very stable amplitude, it's really no match. The greatest deviation between the various positions was six to seven seconds per day. On average it ran ahead three seconds per day, and with the chronograph running the rate was 3.2 seconds faster than a radio-controlled clock.
Open the caseback and you will find the reasons for the Chrono-Matic's better rate results. It has a Glucydur balance while the Monaco makes do with an oscillator of gold-plated nickel. Both watches contain the ETA 2892 base, but in different quality levels. The structure differs too. TAG Heuer uses the modular chronograph ETA 2894, while Breitling uses that movement as a base and adds a chronograph module from Dubois Depraz. Breitling also put more effort into the decorative finishes. Even when the caseback is open, the chronograph mechanism on the dial side remains hidden. Both have a cam mechanism for the chronograph functions, though the movement almost looks lost within the giant Chrono-Matic case.
Still, the large movement-casing ring in the Chrono-Matic provides a place for a special feature that is visible only when the caseback is open. With a modular movement, the crown is not usually on the same plane as the pushers. Breitling eliminates this minor flaw by repositioning the crown. In order to ensure a sufficient level of stability when pulling the crown, it is set within four guides — a fine machining detail that wouldn't be apparent to everyone. This allows for a thinner overall height and places the crown at a more comfortable distance from the wearer's hand.
Taking all of this into consideration, however, one must note that the TAG Heuer Monaco, at $3,900, is considerably less expensive than the Breitling Chrono-Matic at $6,570. For the difference of $2,670, you could even throw in a Breitling Colt Automatic. Both the Chrono-Matic and the Monaco offer appropriate value for the price: the former has a more precise movement, a more elaborate case, an excellent clasp and the slide-rule bezel. It captures the spirit of its predecessor with its size, shape, and dial design, and is a large watch that most can wear comfortably. If authenticity is your main concern, however, the Monaco's design even more clearly recalls the 1970s, the glory days of its most famous wearer, Steve McQueen.
SCORES -
TAG HEUER MONACO CHRONOGRAPHStrap and clasp (max. 10 points): The cleanly finished crocodile strap can be infinitely adjusted thanks to the folding clasp. 12
Operation (5): The pushers are not as easy to operate as those of the ChronoMatic, though a date corrector and hack mechanism are also included. 5
Case (10): Good finishing and an admirable effort for the rectangular case, but the acrylic crystal is susceptible to scratching. 8
Design (15): Nice retro design that recalls the shapes and colors of the '70s. 14
Legibility (5): TAG Heuer uses a round time track to avoid the legibility problems of other rectangular watches. The time is also easy to read at night. 5
Wearing comfort (10j: Comfortable size and weight, and supple strap, though the clasp can sometimes pinch.
Movement (20): TAG Heuer uses the structurally good caliber ETA 2894, though unfortunately in the simplest quality category. 12
Rate results (10): Stable amplitude, low average gains and a moderate deviation between the various positions. Engaging the chronograph function does not
affect the rate. 8
Overall value (15): The watch manintains its value respectably, and the price for it is reasonable. 12
TOTAL: 80 points
SCORES -
BREITLING CHRONO-MATIC49Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Excellently finished and highly functional: of special note are the easy- to-use and well-constructed folding
clasp with multi-length extension. 9
Operation (5) :The fluted crown, hack mechanism, quick-set date, geared power transfer for the slide rule and smoothly functioning pushers make operation easy. 5
Case (10): Excellent finish and refined details like the offset crown and rubber bezel
Design (15): Contemporary adaptation of the '70s design; the large size requires a certain degree of self-confidence from wearers with smaller wrists. 14
Legibility (5) The size increases its legibility, and the luminous material illuminates the dial at night. 5
Wearing comfort (10): The good wearing comfort is unusual for a watch of this size. 9
Movement (20): Breitling has used a high-quality version of the ETA 2892. and added some fine decorative touches. 14
Rate results (10) The extremely stable amplitude is a plus, in addition to the excellent average deviation and the low differences between the various positions.
Overall value (15): A very pricey watch, though you do get a lot for the money. Add in the good-value stability. 12
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